What frame should i buy?

[Macca8530]

Hey
Im looking for a new frame and i can get revell bike frames cheap through work, but i was wondering what revell frame is better for manualing and spinning, the 24 inch revell 250r of the 26 icnh revell 450r. At the moment im riding 26inch but i was thinking about getting a 24 as apparently there more manoverable. What do farkiners think?
Thanks

[cdfeto]

http://forums.farkin.net/showthread.php?t=126688&highlight=24
http://forums.farkin.net/showthread.php?t=104608&highlight=24
http://forums.farkin.net/showthread.php?t=94814&highlight=24
http://forums.farkin.net/showthread.php?t=85177&highlight=24
http://forums.farkin.net/showthread.php?t=109321&highlight=24
http://forums.farkin.net/showthread.php?t=93504&highlight=24
http://forums.farkin.net/showthread.php?t=88952&highlight=24
http://forums.farkin.net/showthread.php?t=76790&highlight=24
http://forums.farkin.net/showthread.php?t=67466&highlight=24
http://forums.farkin.net/showthread.php?t=57880&highlight=24

[Macca8530]

Noo i want to know what people think about revell 24's and 26 not just 24s in general

[adame226]

well not to sure about the frame but i would definately reccomend going to a 24"

[Austen]

look outside the square, revells are nice, but there is a whole world of other nice bikes out there to, there will be haters of both wheels sizes on here but you can only decide yourself dont let some doofus on here make your mind up cause some people will try :(

[cdfeto]

Dude, decide what size wheels you want to be rolling on, then what frame you want.

[SMIIISH]

I am newly converted to 24" from 26. I find that there is a world of difference between the two.
24 you can comfortably run rigids to about a max of 80mm travel. (arguable) the tail is more whippy and manual easily. much easier to 180, coast, fakie etc.
26" you can run rigids (I wouldn't) but you can run a whole load more suspension on it which gives you a lot to think about.
If all you are doing is street, skate park, DJ stuff then 24 is great, but if you want a more all rounder I would suggest 26".

I got a fireeye shortfuse 360 (24" speciffic) and it has the shortest chainstay on the market apparently. The geometry is easily up against a last raffnix and is laughably easy to whip around. I would reccomend it to ANYBODY who is going into the world of 24"
With 26" you are simply spoilt for choice so look around because there is just so, so much beyond revell bikes.
hope this helps.

[cdfeto]

I am newly converted to 24" from 26. I find that there is a world of difference between the two.
24 you can comfortably run rigids to about a max of 80mm travel. (arguable) the tail is more whippy and manual easily. much easier to 180, coast, fakie etc.
26" you can run rigids (I wouldn't) but you can run a whole load more suspension on it which gives you a lot to think about.
If all you are doing is street, skate park, DJ stuff then 24 is great, but if you want a more all rounder I would suggest 26".

I got a fireeye shortfuse 360 (24" speciffic) and it has the shortest chainstay on the market apparently. The geometry is easily up against a last raffnix and is laughably easy to whip around. I would reccomend it to ANYBODY who is going into the world of 24"
With 26" you are simply spoilt for choice so look around because there is just so, so much beyond revell bikes.
hope this helps.

Not picking on you mate, but, what the hell are you on about? 24inch wheels are easier to fakie one? to coast on? Why wouldnt' you run rigids on a 26inch bike ... and why would you be restricted of suspension on 24s?

[Chumbo]

I've had various 24" setups over the past few years and my advice would be that it doesnt make as much of a difference as some people would say, particularly when it comes to plain hopping, jumping, manualling, fakies etc. If you're really into the technical stuff or find yourself hooking up the big wheels when spinning then yeah, you'd probably benefit from 24's. For most people that worry about the 24 vs. 26 decision, i dont think it matters much.

I reckon you should look more widely than just the one brand as well, street frames are all fairly cheap...

[SMIIISH]

Not picking on you mate, but, what the hell are you on about? 24inch wheels are easier to fakie one? to coast on? Why wouldnt' you run rigids on a 26inch bike ... and why would you be restricted of suspension on 24s?

From my experiences, yes, 24s ARE easier to fakie and coast on. Here is why: They have smaller wheels. Which means a shorter chainstay. Shorter chainstays means that its easier to pop up on the back wheel. Which is fact. Try doing a manual at the front of a tandem and then say no. Coasting is far easier if you are further away from the front wheel, with your weight over the back wheel. with 24s, your weight is easier to shift over the back because the bike is smaller. So the weight of your body shifting over a smaller area is much more pronounced. Same sort of thing with fakies. Shifting your weight is easier, pulling the smaller wheels around is easier.
As for running rigids on a 26" bike... that is just my own personal choice... hence me saying "you can run rigids (I wouldn't)"
Here is my personal oppinion on it again: I think that rigids make it too bumpy. Its a bigger bike and so the impacts are bigger. I also think that 26" should have a higher head tube angle. I think it ballances them out more. If you have rigids, you are almost definatly lower to the ground, that added with a comparibly longer chainstay than 24" makes them that much harder to manual.
Why would you be restricted of suspension on 24s? For the same reason why you wouldnt put tripple clamps on a frame like an NS or a Last. Again, same principle, smaller bike, smaller everything. I have pikes on my 24" at the moment and I can tell you that 95mm is too much, and that 100mm is even worse, let alone 140mm. Thats why I am selling them and getting gold labels at 80mm. On the 26" version of the same frame, it is much more forgiving riding a longer travel fork such as the pikes.

Thats what the hell I'm on about.

[Flying-Squirrel]

If you want something that's easy to flick around then I would say the 24". I've never actually ridden one but I would say because it is smaller and lighter it would be easier to. So yeah I say 24".

[cdfeto]

From my experiences, yes, 24s ARE easier to fakie and coast on. Here is why: They have smaller wheels. Which means a shorter chainstay. Shorter chainstays means that its easier to pop up on the back wheel. Which is fact. Try doing a manual at the front of a tandem and then say no. Coasting is far easier if you are further away from the front wheel, with your weight over the back wheel. with 24s, your weight is easier to shift over the back because the bike is smaller. So the weight of your body shifting over a smaller area is much more pronounced. Same sort of thing with fakies. Shifting your weight is easier, pulling the smaller wheels around is easier.
As for running rigids on a 26" bike... that is just my own personal choice... hence me saying "you can run rigids (I wouldn't)"
Here is my personal oppinion on it again: I think that rigids make it too bumpy. Its a bigger bike and so the impacts are bigger. I also think that 26" should have a higher head tube angle. I think it ballances them out more. If you have rigids, you are almost definatly lower to the ground, that added with a comparibly longer chainstay than 24" makes them that much harder to manual.
Why would you be restricted of suspension on 24s? For the same reason why you wouldnt put tripple clamps on a frame like an NS or a Last. Again, same principle, smaller bike, smaller everything. I have pikes on my 24" at the moment and I can tell you that 95mm is too much, and that 100mm is even worse, let alone 140mm. Thats why I am selling them and getting gold labels at 80mm. On the 26" version of the same frame, it is much more forgiving riding a longer travel fork such as the pikes.

Thats what the hell I'm on about.

Ok, maybe you need to go over your vocabulary a bit:
- coasting: moving along on a bike with out any means of propelling power (advancing without pedaling). Is that easier on a 24inch? didnt think so
- fakie: moving backwards on a bike. No spinning or hoping involved, just purely "reversing". Same here.

As for the forks: we're talking bout street/dirt rigs here so its not like you'd ever want anything more then 100mm of travel.

[adame226]

i agree with smiish i actually ride 24" and it is way easier to do everything on so just leave him the f#@*k alone he is basically right and even if you think he is not, everyone is entitled to their own opinion so stop fighting guys

peace

[cdfeto]

i agree with smiish i actually ride 24" and it is way easier to do everything on so just leave him the f#@*k alone he is basically right and even if you think he is not, everyone is entitled to their own opinion so stop fighting guys

peace

Good to see that you care enough about your opinion to back it up and elaborate on it :rolleyes:. No doubt a 24inch specific frame will be "smaller" then a 26inch therefore (theoretically) more maneuverable. I was just clearing things out, not fighting. kthkbye