stromlo tyre choice...

[cha_cha_]

I decided there weren't enough threads floating around on the 24, so here's another one...

what tyres do you plan on running for the 24 and what did you use at the 8hr? got a contingency in case it rains?

for the record I'm currently running an ignitor 2.1 front and a crossmark (soon to be a larson).

[rideabike]

2.3 Schawble - Nobby Nics if it's raining
2.3 Schawble - Racing ralphs if its dry

Raced it (the 24) on 2.1 Larsens last year with no problems, but find the extra grip from the 2.3's are worth the slightly higher rolling resistance - also better in the technical sections like those on last years blue lap and on the downhill sections (especially those along the DH course) on the red lap.

[Dreggsy]

I decided there weren't enough threads floating around on the 24, so here's another one...

what tyres do you plan on running for the 24 and what did you use at the 8hr? got a contingency in case it rains?

for the record I'm currently running an ignitor 2.1 front and a crossmark (soon to be a larson).


I'm running what you've got already.
I found them to be fine at the 8hr.
Dont go for a Larson as you'll need the extra side knobs the crossmark.
Dagonz hate them though

[morgs]

I'm running what you've got already.
I found them to be fine at the 8hr.
Dont go for a Larson as you'll need the extra side knobs the crossmark.
Dagonz hate them though

I'm with Dreggsy, Ignitor, Crossmark combo works well. Larsons haven't got enough side bite. Either way, something with good bite on the front and predictable and a decent amount of bag, skinny tyres will suffer in the rocks.

[Steepy]

I've never raced there but I pretty much ride there at least once every weekend and I've got a 2.35 Larsen TT on the front and a 2.1 Crossmark on the rear and find them to be a good combo for Stromlo, especially for cornering in the dry dusty stuff there as the rear tends to break traction before the front in a nice predictable way which is quite comforting and allows you to hang it out a bit on the descents without having to worry about the front wheel washing out.

[morgs]

I've never raced there but I pretty much ride there at least once every weekend and I've got a 2.35 Larsen TT on the front and a 2.1 Crossmark on the rear and find them to be a good combo for Stromlo, especially for cornering in the dry dusty stuff there as the rear tends to break traction before the front in a nice predictable way which is quite comforting and allows you to hang it out a bit on the descents without having to worry about the front wheel washing out.

The TT being a 2.35 would help, but during a race as long as the Scott a tyre with more ability to bite through the layer of dust that will build up at Stromlo than a TT is a good idea on the front. The tracks are in good nick, but they'll soon get skatey once a few thousand wheels go through there.

[craign]

Another vote for the Ignitor Front/Crossmark Rear Combo. Though I've been running the 2.35" Ignitor up front. You can run Crossmarks front and back, but then you need to concentrate... The trick I find with the Crossmarks is lower pressure really makes a difference so tubeless helps there.

I'd like to try the new bigger (2.25"?) Crossmark on the front sometime.

[FR Drew]

I'm running a Maxxis ADvantage 2.1 up front and a Syncros FLT 2.0 at the rear. Seems to grip nicely in the turns.

I tried the FLT's on front and rear but I prefer the ADvanatage which gives a bit more steering bite. Point n Chute seems to not be open enough in the tread to grip on the loose stuff.

Lots of folks I know swear by a Nevegal up front and that it has "saved" them more than a few times when otherwise they'd have had a lose. Others say they have too much rolling resistance.

DHD (Bill) swears by Kenda small block 8's front and rear.

[JD26]

I definitely support the Kenda Small Block 8 tyres at Stromlo. Absolute perfection for my riding style and the way that Stromlo develops over the course of people riding on it.

The SB8 handles drifting exceptionally well due to the transitional knob arrangement. There is no scary 'let-go' due to a well spaced and even tread arrangement.

I do run them pretty low and tubeless for XCO - that is the key to grip anywhere really. I run 1.95 - 430gram at about 30psi - 79kgs.

The 2.1 might be a better bet for the long haul of 24 hours - a bit more cushin' for the pushin' and only 510 grams.

Just always run them low - any tyre too hard will be sketchy at stromlo due to the tiny ball bearings that the local geology produces there.

Go for the Kevlar bead with the 120tpi thread count - defintiely more supple - plus they have the harder middle knobs and softer side knobs.

Don't worry if it rains at stromlo - it is so well drained and designed that mud is not an issue. (except on the short track circuit where it is imported clay)
Last year at the Brindabella challenge a 4am thunderstorm went through Canberra - by 8 o'clock there were no puddles at all around stromlo on the course they used. the only place it can get 'muddy' is on the back of Telegraph - whcih is maybe 100m long and probably will be used in the 24hour race.

Just one opinion.......

[Dreggsy]

I definitely support the Kenda Small Block 8 tyres at Stromlo. Absolute perfection for my riding style and the way that Stromlo develops over the course of people riding on it.

Just one opinion.......

how do you find the side walls on these?
Are they good wearing tyres?

[Oddjob]

Anyone used Conti Verticals or Speed Kings at Stromlo? How do they hold up?

[Lanky Love]

Shwable nobby nic front
maxxis ignitor back

i wouldnt worry too much about rolling resistance. the tie you loose on the fire trail will be easily made up on those slippery descents.

[Sandtastic]

Schwalbe Racing Ralph 2.1 on the front
Maxxis Larsen TT 2.0 on the back

[EzyLee]

I was looking for a fast rolling tyre than my previous heavy ones that came standard on the stumpy. This is what I am running and have found them to be excellent at mogo and sparrows. :

Front: Specialized The Captain 26x2.0 Tubeless (closer to a 2.2)
Rear: Specialized Sausserwind 26x1.8 Tubeless (closer to a 2.0)


I will be testing them out at Stromlo this weekend for a lap of both the red and blue laps to see how they handle. I will let you know once I have ridden!

[Aro]

Last year at the Brindabella challenge a 4am thunderstorm went through Canberra - by 8 o'clock there were no puddles at all around stromlo on the course they used. Just one opinion.......

If it was at the end of november last year the rain started at about 5pm & didn't fuckin stop until the next day, we started the AROC adventure (night) race in time with the start of the storm, so bad they had to close the kayak & swin leg in lakeBG because of lightning strikes.

Anyway, why the general consensus not to run crossmarks up the front? I run crossmarks front & back & have no probs, keep in mind though that I'm a newb to MTBing so when it comes to whats got good grip etc, I know SFA.

[FR Drew]

For me, my reason not to run Larsens or Crossmarks up front is that I'm a talentless hack and can't corner to save myself. This means that I need all the help I can get and neither of those two offer much. They're fine for people with skills, but for me, they're sketchy as...

[Dreggsy]

Anyway, why the general consensus not to run crossmarks up the front? I run crossmarks front & back & have no probs, keep in mind though that I'm a newb to MTBing so when it comes to whats got good grip etc, I know SFA.

I guess its that they have some aggressive side knobs compared to the crossmark.
I like the drift I get from the cross mark on the rear and wouldn't want that to happen at the front end of the bike.

[dr.evil]

I like to run Ignitor 2.1's on my 26er SS. I have found that by dropping the pressure by 5psi the Ignitors are better for me than the ol' Larsen TTs. Although I find the back tyre a little bit unpredictable now and then (probably more to do with my riding ability).

I use ExiWolf 2.3's for the 29er SS. These have been great out at Stromlo this year. I recently noticed that they are extremely useless in the mud (mental note was taken).

[...jim]

I use ExiWolf 2.3's for the 29er SS. These have been great out at Stromlo this year.

Yeah, I LOVE the tubeless Exiwolf 29er on the front at Stromlo. *Easily* the best front tyre I've used out there. Shame it's on the 29er hardtail - I don't have the legs/lungs/ability to use it for 4/5 laps of the Scott. I'll have to go back to 5" travel just to get through the bugger with any consistancy. It's shod with the ol' Ignitor/Crossmark combo - which is good... but not as good as the Exi.

[JD26]

how do you find the side walls on these?
Are they good wearing tyres?

The sidewalls are OK. I run them tubeless and these are the standard tyres not the beefed up sidewall UST tyres.

And stan's will never seal a sidewall cut on any tyre (98% of the time).

I find them exactly the same as a Maxxis tyre with regard to sidewall strength. It is random a bit though - sometimes you get great mileage then other times they cut up easily - I have found this is standard across the maxxis and Kenda range.

My theory is that it is related to tyre pressure (I could be wrong though) - the sidewalls cut up a bit easier when run at a higher pressure - if you run them low - the tyre can deform over rocks a bit better and not 'bounce' off them. The right pressure is all relative though - pretty tricky to figure out and what works nice and cushy over rough stuff will squirm a bit when pressed hard in berm slammer corners.

With regard to how the tread wears - They are an extremly small knob - therefore they wear pretty quickly - especially on the rear - but they are super fast (rolling resistance-wise) and more than enough grip for me (my other favorite tyre is a Stan's Crow - I definitely favor lower rolling resistance over grip. This has worked well for me at all race courses in the last 12 months. Including 12 XCO and XCC races at Stromlo alone.

Where they suck - deep loamy soil (floaty) and mud (funny - slick central)

Currently I am trialling a 2.1 up front and a 1.95 at the back - this is a sweet setup - poor man's 96er! - similar to BMX setup.

[Bucket Master]

Kujo XC is the only tire I ever ride there (or anywhere for that matter...)

[DaGonz]

Dont go for a Larson as you'll need the extra side knobs the crossmark.
Dagonz hate them though

yeah can't say I've ever been a crossmark fan...

*BUT* the larsen on the rear for similar reasons, nice level of drift, predictable, biggish bag, lots of small spaced knobs for the dust.

I've always found Stromlo to be one of two conditions. Skatey marbles on hardpack, or broken up bulldust. There are lots of hard berms on corners to push off, and really not that much in the way of horrible techy rocky sections. The climbs and flat sections are generally fast, flowy and straight forward, with only the odd off camber corner to deal with

To that end, I've always made the trade off there for fast and light. The risk is losing focus and having it dump you on your face. The odd corner I've had to slow down for as a result is fairly marginal and never really had an issue through the rocky stuff. YMMV though...

I like the drift I get from the cross mark on the rear and wouldn't want that to happen at the front end of the bike.

well you're no fun! ;) I always felt if you can learn to let both ends of your bike slide around at that place, you'll be able push it so hard through so many sections sans brakes. the more you can do that, the less tread you need, the faster you'll go on the ups and flat sections

*shrug*

Cheers
Gonz

[Graunched]

Larsons both ends... just the right amount of grip up the hills, and they let go just the right amount down the hills..... you have max amout of excitement both ways....

[JD26]

yeah can't say I've ever been a crossmark fan...

I always felt if you can learn to let both ends of your bike slide around at that place, you'll be able push it so hard through so many sections sans brakes. the more you can do that, the less tread you need, the faster you'll go on the ups and flat sections



In my opinion, that is the very way to ride at Stromlo, controlled 2 wheel drift - look for the cutting of the track on the upper side of the hill - instant berm - they are everywhere.

As spoonboy alluded - stromlo is either like riding ball bearings on hardpack, or bulldust. A tyre with a pretty good side knob transition with no abrupt "square edge to nothing" is a good safe bet for 2 wheel drifts.

The light tyres at stromlo assist in accelerating out of every switchback on the uphill sections - there are a few.

[mtbike]

I've ridden stromlo a few times now, all on hutchinson python's. They seemed to go good all times without fail. Some people probable wont agree, but i guess it mainly comes down to personal opinion. You know your own limits, so choose what will suit those limits

[FR Drew]

I'm not aware of anyone who thinks stock pythons are suitable for anything but bin filling

[maxwolfie]

I'm not aware of anyone who thinks stock pythons are suitable for anything but bin filling

Don't know about Pythons, but Scorpions are garbage too..... And wear so, so quickly on tarmac it's not funny.

[workmx]

The Specialized Fast Trax works well with all the trails in Canberra, as a steering tyre. I love the Pro version, works well at Stromlo and everywhere else.

I have to agree with FR Drew here: the best things you can do with Hutchinsons is to put them in the bin. :p

[FR Drew]

Have heard that Python Golds that you buy aftermarket work well (although never tried them).

The OEM supplied Pythons that Giant were speccing across 3/4 of their range a few years back were horrendous tyres for Canberra conditions. Did more harm to Hutchinsons rep than it did good, that's for sure.

Obviously designed for a very different soil type.

[krisko]

Being sum what a tyre whore I have tried my share of tyres at Stromlo being my regular place of training.

I run a 2.1 small block 8 dual compound kevlar tyre at the front. It saves 300 grams :eek: over the tubeless version. It grips like fly paper and is very predictable.

On the back I prefer a tubeless tyre for the extra strength of the sidewalls. The rear tyre always seams to cop a flogging at Stromlo due to rocky sections. Iam generally not too fussed as long as the tyre is light weight for a tubeless. I am currently running a Maxxis crossmark.

My thoughts are that a new kevlar tyre on the back converted to tubeless is fine for stromlo but a half worn one may split on the various rocky sections.

For a front tyre, Specailized fast tracks are also great at Stromlo as are Geax suguros, all being very predictable, that inspire you to carve all those berms. The SB8 is my pick of these tyres due to its low weight and most predictable nature.

[workmx]

Kujo XC is the only tire I ever ride there (or anywhere for that matter...)

Do you mean this IRC tyre?

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e115/workmx/untitled-3.jpg

[iscarrr]

Well i decided it was time for some new rubber in preparation for Stromlo.

So yeah got some new Crossmarks, exception series one (not LUST either). So the day after i put them on, went for a ride on the Appin XC track where the race some working week series rides etc.

This was the result sadly. Brand new tyre, first ride. I've been running Crossmarks for a while now never had an issue. Im kinda pissed at the moment :P

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/5655/appinsmashedaz1.jpg

[WolfCreekPsycho]

I had an identical experience with a new set of Crossmark Exceptions at the Ourimbah 8 1/4. The sidewalls are too thin for trails with rocks... Appin, especially will eat your sidewalls... Keep them for Nowra, Lithgow, Penrith etc.
Also saw my wifes bike go through 2 tubes during the Appin club round last weekend... and guess what ? Was running a Crossmark Exception : )

I used to use Larson UST's at Appin just for the bullet proof sidewalls..but standard Crossmarks seem to be fine there as well.

Shame you found out the expensive way.

[cha_cha_]

exceptions are no good for rear wheel detail. I personally wouldn't use them at 100kg, but a mate of mine runs them on the front tubeless with no problems. he's more like 70kg though.

[72Fury]

This was the result sadly. Brand new tyre, first ride. I've been running Crossmarks for a while now never had an issue. Im kinda pissed at the moment :P

Front or rear ?. I have torn a few sidewalls on the rear but never on the front. I now run a crossmark LUST rear, non UST exception up front, sans tube plus a cup of stans. This combo has proved ultra reliable over a variety of courses. I have also had a lot of success in numerous races at Stromlo with this setup.

[thematrix]

I've used crossmarks for the last year but got two flats riding at Bendigo with Crossmark exceptions so may go back to the standard Crossmarks.

I did ride a mates anthem on the weekend with smallblock8 f and R and really liked them but unsure if it was the anthem or the tires.
by the way he only paid 1500 4 the anthem 2 and I was blown out with the way it rode for the price. must be the best deal going around in the last month. I don't know how giant do it. the bike shops need to make their 40% so giant must make the bike for about $400 and wholesale them for $800-900.

[iscarrr]

I had an identical experience with a new set of Crossmark Exceptions at the Ourimbah 8 1/4. The sidewalls are too thin for trails with rocks... Appin, especially will eat your sidewalls... Keep them for Nowra, Lithgow, Penrith etc.
Also saw my wifes bike go through 2 tubes during the Appin club round last weekend... and guess what ? Was running a Crossmark Exception : )

I used to use Larson UST's at Appin just for the bullet proof sidewalls..but standard Crossmarks seem to be fine there as well.

Shame you found out the expensive way.

Wow ouch, i dont feel so bad now. So what just get the standard thicker walled crossmarks for trails like appin? (btw do they make a non exception model thats still folding?) or something else?

And yes to those who asked it was the damn rear! I guess getting back on topic, will the exceptions be ok for the trail at the scott 24h?

Thanks for all the feedback guys.

[cha_cha_]

i would not run an exception rear.

afaik it goes exception = 530g -> regular (folding) = 570g -> LUST = 690g. speaking on the topic of rear tyres, the exceptions are just too soft for reliable tubeless use by people that weigh more than a feather, the regulars are capable for most riders but become soft once they are well worn/used and the lust is about as hardwearing as you could hope for. shame that the lust costs double the regular or i'd be all over it like a fat kid on a cupcake.

also worth noting is that both the exception and the lust are 120tpi tyres (the regular is 60tpi) so they throw all their technology at the lust to get it down to 690g...

['Alex]

I've used crossmarks for the last year but got two flats riding at Bendigo with Crossmark exceptions so may go back to the standard Crossmarks.

After 4~5 rides on crossmarks here in bendigo I tore the side wall just like iscarr. I done the same to a kenda karma too:(.

I just put a patch on the inside of the tyre now if the tear is not too bad, but is getting annoying..

[iscarrr]

i would not run an exception rear.

afaik it goes exception = 530g -> regular (folding) = 570g -> LUST = 690g. speaking on the topic of rear tyres, the exceptions are just too soft for reliable tubeless use by people that weigh more than a feather, the regulars are capable for most riders but become soft once they are well worn/used and the lust is about as hardwearing as you could hope for. shame that the lust costs double the regular or i'd be all over it like a fat kid on a cupcake.

also worth noting is that both the exception and the lust are 120tpi tyres (the regular is 60tpi) so they throw all their technology at the lust to get it down to 690g...

Cheers for the info, very helpful. Might try regular folding on the rear i think.

[JD26]

I have been running standard (ie non UST) tyres tubeless with the Stan's setup for about 2 years now. I weight between 78 and 83kgs depending on how much I have eaten.

The tyres I have run are maxxis exception, kenda SB8 and the Stan's Crow. Some courses around the place are so smooth you could ride a road bike, however, I have raced at Arcadia, Appin, and Stromlo (world cup track) and these tyres have been fine - and those who know these tracks would agree that there are a few rocks here and there.

It is always a trade-off. If you want the light weight of the exception type tyre, then you might just have to ride a little lighter on the bike. 72 fury's concept of LUST on the back is a great idea - it is mainly the rear that get the sidewall cuts - usually when the pressure is too great. The trade off is a slightly less responsive acceleration (if you can feel it) - but a flat tyred bike doesn't accelerate at all.

I can not advocate low pressures enough. Through my experience, running lower presssures does seem to work - less flats, faster ride and all that. 20-23 for a rider <62kgs and 28-30 for 80kgs has worked ok so far.

[Bucket Master]

[QUOTE=workmx;1558452]Do you mean this IRC tyre?

THey are the ones - sweet, here was I thinking I was the only one to ever own a pair

[alchemist]

I'll be using Hutchison Pirahna tubeless, <400g per tyre.

[DaGonz]

I'll be using Hutchison Pirahna tubeless, <400g per tyre.

yer get that when they're only 32mm wide

Cheers
Gonz

[alchemist]

yer get that when they're only 32mm wide


More than enough.

[krisko]

Hey thats very light for a tubeless tyre. Would be good for the back. Keep weight down and have the extra sidewall protection .....

I never realised they were that light. I was running one of these some time ago and it was fine on the back.

I think if you find something that works for you in most conditions, stick with it. If on the other hand you haven't found your magical tyres keep experimenting.

Earlier this week I killed my Crossmax SL hub and so used my spare front wheel with the Specialized fast track on it. I realised how comfortable I am on the Small Block 8's and how average the Fast Tracks are.

[RichJS]

Hey thats very light for a tubeless tyre. Would be good for the back. Keep weight down and have the extra sidewall protection .....

I never realised they were that light. I was running one of these some time ago and it was fine on the back.


I guess you missed that Alchemist is not talking about the Hutchinson Piranha Tubeless Light, which at 600g is still fairly light for UST.

Rather, he's talking about the Piranha CX Tubeless Ready, a 700x32c cyclocross tyre.

Last CX'er I saw racing at Stromlo pinch-flatted before the end of his first lap (BOE WWS.) The rocks there aren't kind to low pressure tubes or skinny tyres, so I hope everyone mad enough to do it on a CX bike is running tubeless!

I'm starting to get used to my recently-installed Maxxis Monorail USTs at Stromlo, tho they've still got tubes in them.. but not for long!

[alchemist]

Last CX'er I saw racing at Stromlo pinch-flatted before the end of his first lap (BOE WWS.) The rocks there aren't kind to low pressure tubes or skinny tyres, so I hope everyone mad enough to do it on a CX bike is running tubeless!!

That would have been me. It's not the rocks that are the problem - it's the blackberry thorns. Was running tubes then will be all tubeless and Stansed up for the scott.

[RichJS]

That would have been me. It's not the rocks that are the problem - it's the blackberry thorns. Was running tubes then will be all tubeless and Stansed up for the scott.

So you're on a Yeti ARC-X? Nice, but Eep.. I still say you're mad! :D I know that I like to use all my Anthem's travel on the way downhill on the Red lap.

There's beer in it for you if I hear you've doubled all of the jumps on the Beginners Downhill section - Blue lap. Someone's gonna get hurt there before the weekend is out, guaranteed!

[crash bandicoot]

Was running crossmark exceptions at stromlo but got sick of throwing them away after ripping the sidewalls.
Now using geax saguaro 26x2.0 high performance with stans and haven't had a problem for the last 4 months riding stromlo 2 to 4 times a week.
They roll as well as the crossmarks and seem to grip a bit better and are only about 20 grams heavier, but suddenly you can't buy them anywhere. Typical.

[Neon]

ridgeline at the back for me.
still seemed to slip a bit when i rode the wc track today

[Mad German]

Some guys mentioned tyre pressure.
What do you think would be a good deal on Mt. Stromlo?
What would you recommend on Maxxis tubeless tyres with a 114kg driver?
No, I'm not pregnant, that's my 'normal' weight! :p

[Neon]

i dunno but it will be very dusty, and maybe muddy.
also rocky....

[Mad German]

i dunno but it will be very dusty, and maybe muddy.
also rocky....

Well, what would you run at which weight......?

[rideabike]

I come in at 70kg and find 40psi is plenty for me. Any higher and its to loosee= in the surface dust.

[crash bandicoot]

I come in at 70kg and find 40psi is plenty for me. Any higher and its to loosee= in the surface dust.

same weight, 70kgs, but I run tyre pressures at 30psi sometimes even as low as 27psi, depends on conditions.

[...jim]

You want your tyres as hard as possible for decent rolling resistance - but not so hard they're not doing what they were built to do.

My standard is to start at 35psi (95kg) then adjust to the terrain/tyre dependant on feel. If you're skating around, drop pressure a little. Of course the converse of that is if you're tyres are deforming under hard cornering - or pinch flatting - go up a little.