View Full Version : Truvativ ISIS Crank Removal.......
Gripper
15-08-2004, 11:40 AM
To be specific the LH (non drive) side crank bolt will not budge.
It is in the counter clockwise direction for undoing the LH side crank bolt?
True?
Thanks
j5ive
15-08-2004, 12:51 PM
yeop, anti cw.
Try a bigger allen key? or get something to lever the small one.
03choko03
15-08-2004, 02:40 PM
you can get 1/4 inch drive allan key sockets, put it on a bar...hey presto
wombat
15-08-2004, 04:44 PM
you can get 1/4 inch drive allan key sockets, put it on a bar...hey presto
Not a bad idea, provided you're using a solid driver, NOT a rachet one.
Yeah, i had the same prob, you need a VERY GOOD QUALITY allen key (one with a 1/4" drive is good to) with ALOT OF LEVERIGE.
You will never undo it with a small tool...Well, that is in my experience.
P.S i tried with a small (and shit) tool once and not only did i rip my palm open, but fucked the allen key too!!
03choko03
15-08-2004, 05:46 PM
you can get 1/4 inch drive allan key sockets, put it on a bar...hey presto
Not a bad idea, provided you're using a solid driver, NOT a rachet one.
yeah , note i said bar , not ratchet
wombat
15-08-2004, 06:40 PM
Meh, I ended up welding an allen key into the head of a truvativ crank bolt and using a 5 foot bar to get it out; and yes, it was greased. That's about the only time the damn things ever stayed tight for me.
Gripper
15-08-2004, 07:21 PM
wow wombat that sound drastic but.........
it looks like it might be my final solution, as the bolt and allen key are getting punnished.
other than that its like um cutting off the crank......now that's drastic :wink:
wombat
15-08-2004, 07:26 PM
Well the welding method did work. If you're going to use it just be careful though. It only needs to be a tack, but it needs to be fast so as you don't get noticeable heat transfer to the other parts of the bike. We used a stick welder, but a MIG would have been nicer. Use a decent key too, it's more expensive to sacrifice, but if you bust a cheap one thats welded in there then things become even more fun as you pull out the die-grinder.... :?
Or you could just drill out the bolt then put in an easyout. Means you will sacrifice the bolt but you get to save the cranks and bottom bracket.
James
Or you could just drill out the bolt then put in an easyout. Means you will sacrifice the bolt but you get to save the cranks and bottom bracket.
James
I wouldn't go the "easy-out" if the bolt is as tight as it sounds. I've never once come across easy-outs that work THAT well... especially if they happen to be hardened bolts. There's a good chance of ending up with HALF a bolt stuck in the BB rather than a whole bolt.
Leverage is the answer.
I've had the same problem with mine.... I just boiled the kettle and carefully poured the water on the bolt head, waited a couple of seconds, the tried again. Broke free quite easily.
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