To Drill Or not to Drill....

[360xup]

Ok so i recently bought a new set of bombers...
so its time to go to work on the old RST's single crown alfalfa's,

http://www.farkin.net/forums/album_thumbnail.php?pic_id=10161 (http://www.farkin.net/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=10161)

I cant seem to find any replacement crowns and i have tried reclamping them on many occasions with all of them lasting about 2 rides-so im thinking of drilling a bolt straight through the the crown and stanchion.
Or the other possibillity is to drill into the crown, and put clamp bolts into it. Anyways any other suggestions post em up
cheers...

[shift]

what ever you do, do not drill those holes

you'll drill though the internals of your forks!!!#@$

if they've come lose from the crown, they've had it.

[360xup]

i know theyve had it.. thats why i wanna experiment with em :lol:
oh yeah i should of specified that the clamp bolts would only go through the crown and clamp onto the stanchion....

[shift]

you could try it i guess

but i would strongly recomend against it.
they will be a disaster waiting to happen and a serious risk of health to you or anyone that goes near them.

[j5ive]

You could always get a clamp on crown machined up. Wouldnt be cheap though.

But yes- don't drill.

[Grip]

The problem with your idea is that you would only have the aluminium crown in which to tap a thread and you'd be expecting it to REALLY tighten up against (and hold) the fork stauncion in place.

Try machining out the "gap" where the crown clamps around the stanucions so that you can get a little extra "closure" onto them.

[LTR]

Drill... you honostly have nothing to loose.

[sawtell]

im with LTR, drill you dont have much to loose, and you could possible drill to the side of the rod which runs down the centre, well i dont think it is the hole thinkness of the stanchion (spelling?), or even to smaller blots either side...

[Rik]

Drill... you honostly have nothing to loose.
Your face/upper body when it breaks on you...

[sawtell]

Drill... you honostly have nothing to loose.
Your face/upper body when it breaks on you...

yeah but you would not use them unless they felt sturdy, unless you were indredibley stupid..like my self

[SPOON]

Well if u dont care much about them anymore, then drill away. Maybe u could drill a few holes to make it more secure?
Anyhow........is it just me or do those stanchions look bent inwards?? :? :? :?

[MrPlow]

Drill... you honostly have nothing to loose.

Except your entire face. I am serious! Don't do it, unless you are really ugly anyway :?
Then you may as well do it.
They are clamp up aren't they? If they are then do what grip says. I have alfalfa DC's and they are clamp up.
Goto loctites www too, there will be a bonding product from them to fix it I know.

[kalem]

BIN 'EM.

[shift]

a new set of forks of the same price will end up cheaper than a new set of teeth...

i honestly wouldnt even consider doing it.
it'd be about as safe as doing DH runs with no armour or helmet.

[ajay]

a new set of forks of the same price will end up cheaper than a new set of teeth...

i honestly wouldnt even consider doing it.
it'd be about as safe as doing DH runs with no armour or helmet.

amen to that. 8)

although, teeth busted out by a drilled rst would make cool avatar... :P

[mtb_man]

Just pm Rik and find out what stuff he used to join his super t's together with. Buy a tube of that and then use it on your forks, much better than getting the drill out.

[No Skid Marks]

Forget it it's all bad and temporary. Keep them and pray that the new Fox 36s will have the staunchions the same distance apart and get some of there staunchions and crowns and make some custom forks. I'm guessing about 1 in a 100 chance of this working but it's a safer dream.

[Rik]

Just pm Rik and find out what stuff he used to join his super t's together with. Buy a tube of that and then use it on your forks, much better than getting the drill out.
It was a highish grade loctite made for sleeve fittings. 680 was the number from memory.
Grip has mentioned another grade that he uses for fitting steerers, and he's said before it can bridge fairly big (relatively) gaps.

So, I assume that this fork has pinch clamps that have been overtightened, now the staunchions have play? If so, file some material out from between the clamp faces? Shim the staunchions? Use an adhesive compound? All of the above?

[No Skid Marks]

Nah they're press fit. The modern fork fuse, designed to just outlast warranty.

[danv]

Just pm Rik and find out what stuff he used to join his super t's together with. Buy a tube of that and then use it on your forks, much better than getting the drill out.
It was a highish grade loctite made for sleeve fittings. 680 was the number from memory.
Grip has mentioned another grade that he uses for fitting steerers, and he's said before it can bridge fairly big (relatively) gaps.
I use 609 (I think its the strongest, but not sure. The loctite website has all the information you need, its very good) for cylindrical applications. It can do a gap of 0.02mm.

360, If the forks are press fit, then how exactly did you "reclamp" them?

Whats the crown made of? Is it weldable? Could you weld shoulders and put in pinch bolts? (Is it wortth it?!)

[kari]

You're drilling holes in something that has already been engineered down to a minimal amount of metal. Unless you have a serious fetish for nurses (you'll probably get an ugly fat one anyway) throw those in the bin and spend your time working out how to pay for some new forks

[Grip]

Just pm Rik and find out what stuff he used to join his super t's together with. Buy a tube of that and then use it on your forks, much better than getting the drill out.
It was a highish grade loctite made for sleeve fittings. 680 was the number from memory.
Grip has mentioned another grade that he uses for fitting steerers, and he's said before it can bridge fairly big (relatively) gaps.

I use 609 (I think its the strongest, but not sure. The loctite website has all the information you need, its very good) for cylindrical applications. It can do a gap of 0.02mm.

360, If the forks are press fit, then how exactly did you "reclamp" them?

Whats the crown made of? Is it weldable? Could you weld shoulders and put in pinch bolts? (Is it wortth it?!)

Loctite 609 is Medium/High strength and can usually be dismantled by hand/press/pullers. It'll fill gaps to 0.2mm (0.008" or 8thou). and has a nominal strength that COULD be as low as 16N/mm2

Which is why 680 (mentioned by Rik) is probably better as it's rated Very High strength and usually requires heat to dismantle (so get it right!) fills the same gap (0.2mm) but has a cured nominal strength STATED at 28N/mm2 which COULD be twice the above.

Twice the strength is GOOD. We use it for replacing steerer tubes and even EXTENDING steerer tubes as per these pics. It's good stuff.
http://www.farkin.net/forums/album_thumbnail.php?pic_id=10228 (http://www.farkin.net/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=10228)
http://www.farkin.net/forums/album_thumbnail.php?pic_id=10229 (http://www.farkin.net/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=10229)

If you need to work with a bigger gap 660 will fill to 0.5mm

[danv]

Sorry for my misinformation - alot of info on all loctite products can be found here (http://www.loctite.com.au/int_henkel/loctite_au/index.cfm?&pageid=19&layout=3) at the site. They also have a good hotline.

[Grip]

Sorry for my misinformation - alot of info on all loctite products can be found here (http://www.loctite.com.au/int_henkel/loctite_au/index.cfm?&pageid=19&layout=3) at the site. They also have a good hotline.

Mate you don't have to be sorry for a decent post. You DID actually say I think its the strongest, but not sure and that's all anyone has to do when they're trying to help.

Good stuff.

[360xup]

Yeah cheers for you help ppl, i never thought about locktite - ill give that a go, yeah as for danvitme's question, i meant to say that i re pressed them at mates steel place using a hotair gun thingy so that it wouldnt dick around with the strength - its a temporary soloution but was alright