Question: help finding a DH bike

[flyingmonkey*(+.+)*]

Hey all,

looking at getting a Dh bike, put a post in wanted stuff as well.

im trying to stick to a budget of $2000 and something that is 2nd hand.
had a look at things like, Bighits, Giant Dh, Stinky's and the others...

can someone give me there opinions on each of these and pluses and minus's on each if u have one of the above.

cheers guys.

[Daver]

Bighits and Stinkys aren't really DH bikes. If you can get a 2003 Giant DH Comp within your budget go for it, as they're a damn sorted bike (good parts and geo).

[ashley grundy]

I Have a liquid downhill bike im trying 2 sell. its got some old parts but the frmes never been used.

[ashley grundy]

oh yeah for $2000

[ashley grundy]

and ive got another liquid downhill bike with a sick spec for 2500

[demo man]

This is my thread or whatever it's called to VTSS... about buying a second hand bike, most of it is still correct for your needs.

i used to have an 03 stinky, which after just a little poking was apretty decent DH/FR and Jump bike. sure, the rebound was too fast and the compression a little stif, but it did the job fine. Kona's are brilliantly built bikes that wil never fail you in terms of reliability. strongest bike you'll get 4 that money.

BigHit would be pretty good, although the 24" rear wheel can slow you down heaps on tracks with bigger bumps as it can get 'caught' easier. but, descent travel and goos streangth at a good price, not bad.

Giants, well, the best bang for your buck by far, even if they arn't quite as strong or reliable. if you find a good one in good cond. then go for it.

check out everysite you can find - including club sites - to find stuff on sale. try www.mtba.asn.au (all of Aust.) & www.corc.asn.au (Canberra), try the for sale sections and list a wanted ad.


"Giants tend to go through pivot parts quite quickly - that area is the main weakness. i mean, it depends on how hard you're riding but over all they're just not quite as tough.

what do you mean by what to look for? do you mean inm terms of damage to bikes/bike codition?

if so,

always check all weld/join sections of the frame thoroughly, if it's a little dusty, it may proove very smart to wipe off the dust in areas of large forces to check for cracks.

look at all the bolts, are they tight? if they're not tight now, while on inspection, i doubt that they would be tight any other time, loose bolts can mean other parts wear faster.

check the wheels out too. is there any kinks or bends? if there is much visible damage thay may be close to the end. if they just look a little bent, maybe factor in a wheel true. also, how old are thay? older rims/wheels are going to be more damaged than a newer set, simple!

check the hubs too. does the wheel move left to right a little without the fork or bars moving? check if the wheels loose, if it's not, then the cones may be loose or need replacing. also, see how fast the wheels spin. if they have too much resistance then it's possible the bearings are damaged. but give some leiniancy for brake rub

brakes. are the discs bent/warped? is there any oil near the caliper? how warn are the pads? if they are fairly thin then $50-$100 isn't too far off.

suspension
forks

is there an unusual amount of oil above the seals? is there a lot of play in them (more than that type of fork should have)? check them over for cracks too.

rear shock

make sure the spring is the right rate for you. is there any visible damage to the coil? look at the bushings and see if they are overly worn.

grab the moving parts like the casset, cranks, pedals, and check for excess play.

check out the derailluer, click through the gears and check if it's all ok. also, does it have a chain device? for DH you really do want one, especially for racing.

check out the chainrings too, are they really worn down? if so the gears won't change as well and the chain probably isn't in great condition.

be wary of freshly painted bikes, that paint could be hiding a crack! or even stickers in weird places.

check if there is a lot of wear on the pedals - will you need to replace the pins or even the whole pedal?

look at the tyres too, see how worn they are, will you need to buy a new set?

there's also the obvious stuff like frame size, but you should find out pretty quick when you take it for a test ride if it's not right (take it for a proper test ride on a track, not just a carpark thrash - can't stress that enough).

when you are talking money, point out that you'll need to do this and that (get a wheel true or buy new tyres or a chainring etc.), and don't pay more than what it's worth! even write down the spec list and take it to a bike shop and tell them how old and what sort of condition it's in and they should be able to tell you a realistic price.

oh, and if there are rare parts on the bike, or a weird part, check out if it's impossible to get replacment parts for it. nothing worse than having to buy a new shock or something because you can't find a little bit of plastic or metal. as long as it's brand name it's all good! (generally).

a good idea is to take a checklist your LBS could give you, or from this, and tick off stuff as you see it's there/good.

and again, talk to your LBS! they should be able to help you indefinately

Cheers, "

hope that helps, atleast in one way or another.
also, sorry to all hose lazy readers like me for the very long post, but i'm pretty sure it all needed to be said.

[darren]

Thanks for all the info, it helps in the future of bike buying for me, cuts through the gargon

[flyingmonkey*(+.+)*]

thanks demo_man awesome post

thanks for the extra information ill make sure i look at each point in fine detail when looking at a bike

cheers