::Spec My Street Frame::

[jamsta]

Hey Fellow Farkiners,

I'm open to suggestions on the specs for my new 853 Reynolds Norco 416 street frame. So hit me with your ideas to help me decide on what the final build will be. ie: Forks, wheels, headset, crankset, bars, SS or Geared etc. eg: I was thinking of Single Track rims in polished alloy with either blue or gold CK hubs? Scandium "pewter" bars?? etc.. that sort of thing.

I want this bike to stay with me for a long time to come, so realistic yet some how "bling" is on my mind.

Any ideas and comments appreciated.

cheers
Jamsta

http://soul-riders.com/uploads/416reynolds.jpg

[Butch]

alright here goes my idea of a street spec seein im mind im a dh'er , 721 rims on chris king hubs(blue) , tompson seat post , toughneck seat , dh composite downhill bars , easton vice stem , chris king steel headset , single speed setup , hone crank set , avid juicy 7 with 8 inch rotor for rear brake , sherman jumpers up front with the possibility of juicy 7 8 inch setup on front

[naz]

right you want street setup

headset: king
fork: pike airs (1.9kg to keep weight down, run at 95mm, depending on your weight run 10 extra psi than recommended so the forks only really take square edge hits and dont ride like jelly), shermans creak and weigh a tonne, marzocchi are fucked.

stem: Thomson, yes expensive but saves a fair bit of weight over a shorty or such.

bars: pro tapers no questions asked, pewter/Ti.

hubs: Hadley 20mm thru front, rear hadley SS 108 engagement point, now that hadley do the 108, kings have lost there appeal, yes its king but there engagement system isnt the great if u spinn the wheel the pedal back a bit you can hear the freewheel mechanism skip, it runs similar the the hugi's star ratchet system except with 72 opposing teeth on each side, and servicibility, good luck pulling a king apart and puttin it back together, a hadley can be done by anyone with 2 tools a green park pin spanner n a 22mm wrench i think.or the new profile SS hub.

spokes: double butted dt swiss.

rims: 721 to save weight

rim liner: michelin yellow plastic ones

tyres: kenda k-rad (lighter and just as tuff as holy rollers, or am soon to try the new geax street tyre)

cranks: profile DJ, (after runnin diabolous i found that the outboard bearings arent the smartest thing for street, when you grind(on ya BB) the bearings are too succeptable to hits and fuckin up the cups, stick with the internal BB and if your going profile, quality is no issue.

BB: profile with Ti spindle, hop up kit and flush bolt kit.

sprocket: profile

Rear cog: well depending on fro2nt sprocket, microdrive for sk8park clearance n around a 2:1 ratio is perfect for park n street. so if u can say a 30:15 (reason below)

chain: if your wanting to grind buy a fat chain KMC coolchains are da bomb, now there phat so runnin them on small sprockets on the rear will wear your chain fast along with sprocket, so its a toss up between front chainring clearence and chain wear. but ive got a 30:15 ratio with a phat chain and its going beautifully.

pedals: azonic a-frame, atomlab (if you like replacing bushings once a month), syncros cromoly things

brake overview: 8inch is overkill, you never generate enough heat to justify a 8inch and esp riding street the more clearence the better esp when grinding and such, 6inch set up well is more than adequate.

brake(caliper and lever): guessing rear brake only. its really personel
preference, avids i dont see all the hype. hope well there hope and once u ride a hope u never want anything else, exceptional build quality even better lever feel. aesthetically perferct. id say try and find the Try-all Hope mini custom one, larger piston for more power yet lighter than your normal hope mini, and they come with a sick custom try-all rotor.

brake line: goodridge no questions asked

brake lever: dangerboy, am still to find the street specific one

brake pads: Clarks VRX carbonne lorraime sintered metal.

grips: ruffian lock ons.

seatpost: thomson

seat: any of the dj saddles azonic dmr etc

im guessing your frame will have horizontal dropouts, chain tugs are a must unless u like your back wheel moving around. run your seat angled upwards, no it wont poke you up the ass, but its more comfortable riding long distances, its easier to pinch the seat (barspins, one handed manuals, etc), street you want bombproof parts, and spending it when your building it up is much cheaper than buyin something cheap then a beter one 6months down the track when it fucks out.
hope that helped

might add aswell, crank length is quite important for clearence on copin if ur retarded (if your not longer does seem beter so far, more leverage so those little kicks to keep your front up in manuals requires less effort, hence not throwing your balance out as easy)

spaced it out to make reading easier. lol

[S_M_I_D_D_Y]

15 tooth on tha back small???? bmx guys run likw 25-9 and get away with it. a 15 tooth sprocket will be fine

[naz]

15 tooth on tha back small???? bmx guys run likw 25-9 and get away with it. a 15 tooth sprocket will be fine

hey you got a point, see all that postin i lost logic.

[S_M_I_D_D_Y]

I got another point to. if you have boltup axles and not qr, you wont need chaintugs. do u see any bmxers with them? didnt think so. however, with boltup, the bolts chew up a alumiium frame pretty bad, and, i know a couple of guys who run or ran qr in horizontal dropouts fine without tugs.

[naz]

I got another point to. if you have boltup axles and not qr, you wont need chaintugs. do u see any bmxers with them? didnt think so. however, with boltup, the bolts chew up a alumiium frame pretty bad, and, i know a couple of guys who run or ran qr in horizontal dropouts fine without tugs.

i dont know about that, id run tensioners no matter what, bmx'er do there hubs up so tight im surprised they dont implode. this dude has a cromoly frame anyway which doesnt makea difference anyway runa washer fixes that problem, and chaintugs make adjusting your chain tensioner a breeze and centering it.

its just a 25$ precaution that i know is money well spent.

[S_M_I_D_D_Y]

yea. well i never had a problem on any bikes i ever ridden. actually, on my bmx, it was harder to set things up right with the tensioner on there

[bradh]

you don't necessarily need tugs. just buy a half link (if necessary) and run your rear wheel jammed.

naz, are pike airs adjustable to 95? they're not u-turn air, are they? i thought the options were either 130mm or 140mm, depending on spacer config...

[S_M_I_D_D_Y]

Yea. i was thinking that about the airs too but wasnt sure.

[-DAvo]

you don't necessarily need tugs. just buy a half link (if necessary) and run your rear wheel jammed.

naz, are pike airs adjustable to 95? they're not u-turn air, are they? i thought the options were either 130mm or 140mm, depending on spacer config...


think air uturn pikes are an 06 model?

[Cameo]

Goddammit Jamo! Another Bike!!

Nice choice BTW...

Fork: Fox Range (Vanilla RLC, or '04 Vanillas RL.)
Headset: Chris King Steelset
Bar+Stem: Easton Vice, Answer Protaper, or Atomlab Aircorp.
Brake(s): Hope Mono Mini(s)
Wheels: Atomlab Trailpimps, built up on to Hope big'un front, and DMR Revolver SS rear (16T)
Cranks: Profile 175mm, with 36T chainring
Chain: Shadow Conspiracy Half link (For ultimate Bling!)
Sproket: Profile 36T or FBM 36T with guard.
Pedals: Sun Ringle Octane with Ti axles
Seat/Post: DMR post, and Jump seat.
Tyres: If 26", Tioga Yellow Kirens, if 24" Kenda K-Rads
Tubes: Maxxs DH 26"x2.2-2.5

Accessories: Goodridge line.

Cheers,
Cam

[Regan]

This is my recommendation...

Fork: 06 Pike Air Team
Rims: Mavic 721
Hubs: Hadley, SS 108 point engagement rear, 20mm front
Spokes: DT Alpine III,
Nipples: DT
Head Set:Chris King NoThreadSet (SteelSet would be overkill!)
Brakes: (Rear only) Hope Mono M4’s w/ Manitou post mount caliper running on a rear Hayes adaptor (YEEHAA…NO shims to mess with), two piece 180mm rotor, Goodridge hose.
Bars: Answer ProTaper OS
Stem: Thomson X4, 50mm
Grips: ODI Lock-On
Seat: Personal preference
Seat Post: Thomson Masterpiece
Cranks/BB: Profile???
Pedals: Personal preference

[naz]

you don't necessarily need tugs. just buy a half link (if necessary) and run your rear wheel jammed.

naz, are pike airs adjustable to 95? they're not u-turn air, are they? i thought the options were either 130mm or 140mm, depending on spacer config...

well on the rockshox site, it says there internallly adjustable to 95, but im guessin they would have the same internals as reba's and all travel adjustment is done by plastic clips so chuckin it down to 95 would be possible you would just have to compensate the oil height. i.e i was going to lower my reba lowers that 85 (60 even) was going to throw another clip in then lose a bit more oil on the opposing leg

half link chain. they suck, because each half link isnt perfectly straight, there a bit straight then spread out then straight again, they stretch really easily n dont sit on the chain properly.

[bradh]

well on the rockshox site, it says there internallly adjustable to 95, but im guessin they would have the same internals as reba's and all travel adjustment is done by plastic clips so chuckin it down to 95 would be possible you would just have to compensate the oil height. i.e i was going to lower my reba lowers that 85 (60 even) was going to throw another clip in then lose a bit more oil on the opposing leg
oh, ok. cool. if it's true that they can be run with such short travel, they just started to look a whole lot more attractive...

[-DAvo]

yea yea might as well..

Fork: 06 Pike 454
Rims: Mavic 729
Hubs: Chris king rear, hadley 20mm front
Spokes: DT
Nipples: DT
Head Set:FSA orbit extreme pro deep cup
Brakes: 2006 avid juicy 7, 6inch, goodridge hoses and pads
Bars: Answer ProTaper OS
Stem: Easton VICE 50mm
Grips: ODI
Seat: any jump seat or a sdg bellair
Seat Post: Thomson elite
Cranks/BB: bmx bb: Profile, Mtb bb: saints
Pedals: dmr v12 mag

;)

[jamsta]

wow, heaps of great ideas on specs there guys, cheers. I'm gonna have to add a bit $ to the budget tho.


Are Pikes that good? I've never had a ride on them to comment :o

[Daver]

Fork: Fox Talas 36R. 110mm, lighter than RC2, stiff as a mofo.
[B]Headset: Chris King Nothreadset- why would you avalise your headtube anyway?
Bar+Stem: Dangerboy AK47 stem- super low stackheight. Protaper bars, 1" rise.
Brake(s): Juicy 7, 160s.
Wheels: Hadley 20mm front, Hadley 108 rear. 721 rim- lighter and stronger than 729. Aero spokes (lighter than std).
Cranks: Profile DJ, 180mm, ti axle.
Chain: some bmx one... KMC?
Sproket: e13, 33T, with integrated bashring.
Pedals: Funn soljam viper
Seat/Post: Thomson post, Ti-fly seat.
Tyres: Holy roller
Tubes: WTB XC.

[topher]

Pikes are mad forks. They are super plush, easy to set up. Its money well worth spent it you get pike airs to! Go the airs for sure and get an 06 model, in the team!

[Rik]

bmx guys run likw 25-9 and get away with it. a 15 tooth sprocket will be fineMaybe so, but for component wear life and smoothness of operation, running the biggest chainring/sprocket combo you can get away with is the best thing you can do. 9t is stupidly small, 15t should be fine, but if it can go bigger, why not do so...

[MUGEN]

Maybe so, but for component wear life and smoothness of operation, running the biggest chainring/sprocket combo you can get away with is the best thing you can do. 9t is stupidly small, 15t should be fine, but if it can go bigger, why not do so...
For clearance maybe?

[Rik]

I think clearance was implied when I said "you can get away with". And running too small a drivetrain gives you a negative result of not being able to sprocket grind/stall on the actual sprocket, instead the BB shell and chainstays cop the beating :eek:

[MUGEN]

I think clearance was implied when I said "you can get away with". And running too small a drivetrain gives you a negative result of not being able to sprocket grind/stall on the actual sprocket, instead the BB shell and chainstays cop the beating :eek:
Well some riders want the most chainring clearance possible, would also save a bit of weight (less chain links, smaller sprocket.) And as u can see on the frame, the whole point of the grind guard things on the chainstay is for grinding on it!
But yeh, it would operate smoother on a larger chainrings.

[HYOSHIMO]

the majority of the parts listed are good for mtb parts....
but who the fudge wants to run flimsy assed mtb parts? this is how id deck it out -no pussy assed truvativ aluminium or shimano zxx122 "the latest same shit" gears.

Fork: Funn rigids -with 20mm qr.
Headset: Primo Oversized lower cup, standard sized a primo top cup
Bar+Stem:: Bit difficult- id go Funn stem too, but atom lab bars look cool -settle for dk or dmr bars possibly.
Brake(s): just V Bralkes with an Odyssey Trigger -possibly a disc...

Wheels: -have to settle with mavic's...36hole, with ss hubs by profile for 24 inch bmx, running chain tensioners on the back by Primo.
Cranks: -Primo overbite with ti spindle or profile.

Chain: Shadow Conspiracy Half Link chain. or KMC 415 oversized.
Pedals: Cant go past Odyssey.
Sproket: FBM with bashguard -38t, or tree bike co for those weight weenies, id have a profile 14 on the back, possibly with free coaster option if possible.
Seat/Post: Fit Bike seat post, Eastern Seat or We The People jump seat.
Tyres: Dmr or Holley Rollers.


Also -id run a peg on the rear -cut in half so that its half the length -makes street grinds possible like icepicking rails etc.

Thats how id deck out my frame -predominantly bmx stuff -its a little bit cheaper but built to last and stronger, it may weigh a bit more but most have options like instead of fbm sprocket get a tree- its all good.

[lotec]

^like that build except the chain, i know a few people with them and a full half link chain just stretches way too easily too quickly, id be going a huge ass grind chain with a single halflink but thats just me :)

[pigman]

I think clearance was implied when I said "you can get away with". And running too small a drivetrain gives you a negative result of not being able to sprocket grind/stall on the actual sprocket, instead the BB shell and chainstays cop the beating :eek:

If im not wrong, the norco trials bikes have extra grind/bash plates welded along the left chainstay (mine does anyway) so this would make it stronger and so be possible to run a small chain ring, due to the reinforcing.